Scrambles in
Ulster and Connacht

Great Scrambling Routes

Alan Tees, from Derry/Londonderry but a long-time Donegal resident, has been enjoying the north-western Irish hills for over forty years, climbing and logging over 300 new rock climbs in the region. He has climbed in the Alps, Rockies, Andes and Himalaya. Instigator of the Glover Highland Walk, Culdaff Climbfest and Inishowen Wild Way, he is editor of Rock Climbing in Donegal, and has published articles in Irish Mountain Log, American Alpine Journal and Himalayan Journal. He has served as Secretary of Colmcille Climbing Club and President of Mountaineering Ireland. His royalties will be donated to CRY, a Sudden Adult Death Syndrome charity, in memory of his first wife, Irene.

Scrambling and hillwalking are risk sports. The author and The Collins Press accept no responsibility for any injury, loss or inconvenience sustained by anyone using this guidebook.

Advice to Readers

Every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of our guidebooks. However, changes can occur after a book has been printed. If you notice discrepancies between this guidebook and the facts on the ground, please let us know, either by email to enquiries@collinspress.ie or by post to The Collins Press, West Link Park, Doughcloyne, Wilton, Cork, T12 N5EF, Ireland.

The author on Cnoc na Mara in County Donegal.

Acknowledgements

• For suggested routes: Conor Warner, Martin Boner and Sean Convery.

• Access information: Sligo MC, Nicky Hore and Mountaineering Ireland.

• Photographs: Andy McInroy, Conor Warner, Adrian Hendroff, Richard Creagh, Maeve McKeever and Iain Miller.

• Companions on the hill (including some wild-goose chases): Finbarr Mullin, Jeremy Smith, Marty McGuigan, Anthony Feeney and, of course, my long-suffering wife Margaret.

For me, mountaineering is essentially about people, and the mountain environment provides the special and precious canvas on which we paint our shared experiences. I would therefore like to dedicate this book to my many companions on the hill over the years, and especially my wife Margaret. Also to the landowners, without whose goodwill and tolerance we would be unable to pursue the sport that is so close to our hearts.

Lower Gully, Rocky Cap Ridge (Route 2)

Errigal North Ridge.

Contents

Route location map

Quick-reference route table

Introduction

Using this book

ULSTER

Donegal

Route 1 Errigal: North-west ridge and Tower Rib

Route 2 Drumnalifferny Mountain: Rocky Cap Ridge

Route 3 Glenveagh: Astelleen Waterfall

Route 4 Muckish: Y Gully

Muckish: Muciron

Route 5 The Poisoned Glen: Castle Gully

Route 6 Glascairns Hill: Big Slabber and Hidden Gully

Route 7 Slieve League: One Man’s Pass

Route 8 Glencolmcille: The Sturrall Traverse

Route 9 Owey Island: Taming the Dragon

Owey Island: The Lake Beneath the Lake

Route 10 Inishowen Head: Port a Doris and Columba’s Cave

Route 11 Malin Head: The Cutting Edge

Malin Head: Coastal Traverse

NORTHERN IRELAND

Route 12 Binevenagh and the Devil’s Thumb (County Derry/Londonderry)

Route 13 Fair Head: Cliff Tour (County Antrim)

Route 14 Mourne Mountains: Mournes Traverse (County Down)

Route 15 Mourne Mountains: Lamagan Slabs and Devil’s Coachroad (County Down)

CONNACHT

Sligo

Route 16 Kings Mountain: Annach Re Mhor and Pinnacle Gully

Route 17 Benwiskin and Diarmuid & Grainne’s Cave

Route 18 Glenade: Eagle’s Rock

Mayo and Galway

Route 19 Achill: Croaghaun and Achill Head

Route 20 Mweelrea: Ben Bury via Glencullin Ridge

Route 21 Twelve Bens: Bencollaghduff by Forked Gully

Route 22 Twelve Bens: Bencorr via Carrot Ridge or Caveman’s Delight

Route 23 Twelve Bens: Ben Breen via Cloud Rake

Route 24 Twelve Bens: Derryclare via Deckled Edge or Ragged Ridge

Appendix: Rock Climbing First Ascents

Route Locations

Quick-reference route table

Beside Y Gully on Muckish (Route 4a).

Introduction

Most hill-goers love a scramble, and many such guidebooks exist for the Lake District, Wales and areas of Scotland. Alas, scrambles are thin on the ground in Ireland, and to my knowledge the only publication to date is Denis Lynch’s Munster’s Mountains, published by The Collins Press (2001).

As someone who has been active over many years, particularly in Donegal, I had often considered a guide to Donegal’s scrambles, but frankly there was just not enough material. By including all of Ulster and Connacht, and widening the scope somewhat to include easy climbs and other adventures, we have, I think, critical mass.

There should be something for everybody here, whether it is just a visit to the wonderful Owey Island with a bit of caving thrown in, a big hillwalk/scramble in the Mourne Mountains or an iconic ridge on Errigal.

Adventure tourism has become big business, with many organisations offering thrills in faraway, exotic places. Exciting places exist at home too, without the need for long-haul air travel, for those who know where to find them.

This guide to some of those places, in the northern and western provinces of Ireland, is primarily aimed at mountaineers, and those who use it should possess the necessary skills, but for those who do not, even a visit to these places can be an adventure in its own right, for example Owey’s cave in Donegal or Annach Re Mhor in Sligo.

Similarly, the scramble often only makes up part of the day’s outing and can be avoided, and perhaps should be avoided if the weather is unsuitable (as it often is in Ireland).

Many of these places are rarely visited, and some will argue that the publication of such a guide will damage the quality of the experience, but scramblers do not tend to operate in large groups, and in these days of national concern over obesity, perhaps we need every stimulus available to encourage people to get outdoors and exercise.

Scrambling is a ‘hands on’ experience that can provide a natural ‘high’ similar to rock climbing. Without all the paraphernalia and the stop/start of pitching, the sheer joy of climbing, a natural activity for humans, can be more freely appreciated. I topped out on a cliff on a clear, windy day at Malin Head recently, to encounter a visitor who asked from where I had come. I showed him part of the coastal traverse route described in this guide, and he set off to do it. On meeting him again afterwards, I have rarely seen such euphoria.

I hope the reader enjoys the same experience.

Using this book

ROUTE DESCRIPTIONS

Discovery